Root Starter / Bulb Growing Pot

Root Starter is designed to promote rooting and acclimatization of Alocasia bulbs, even the most fragile, in a controlled environment.

It stimulates roots while limiting stress and the risk of loss.

• Optimal temperature: 25°C to 28°C

• - 22°C → growth slows down

• + 30°C → risk of rot increases

Yes, humidity close to 100% is recommended at the start to promote root emission.

• Light ventilation every two to three days is sufficient to prevent imbalances and limit the risk of mold.

Yes, but very little.

• Add only 12 to 15 ml of water when the system is almost empty.

• Water should never be in direct contact with the grid or the bulb.

• Use a syringe to deposit the water directly at the bottom of the container, under the grid.

• The Root Starter works primarily thanks to ambient humidity, so there is no need to water more often.

No. Root Starter contains enriched biochar, which already provides the necessary nutrients for root development. No additional fertilizer is required.

Yes, but it depends on the quality and pH of your water:

• Ideal: pH between 5.5 and 6

• Some regions have very alkaline water (pH 7.5–8) → risk of rot for fragile roots

• Tips:

• Let the water sit for 24 hours to reduce minerals

• Or use osmosed water

• If possible, measure the pH and adjust with products like "pH Down"

A bulb (corm) does not photosynthesize, so light is not mandatory. Heat and humidity are the most important components. Bright indirect light is important when the first leaf starts to emerge.

• Avoid direct sunlight to prevent overheating the system or creating algae deposits.

• Tip: You can place a small, light black veil over the Root Starter to dim the light.

• This protects against direct light.

• This also helps maintain the temperature around 27–28°C if you have difficulty reaching it.

• 1 to 3 weeks for the first roots

• Sometimes longer depending on the bulb's condition

Root Starter accelerates the arrival of the first roots.

You can be pleasantly surprised very quickly, even with bulbs that have been dormant for several weeks.

Patience remains key, but your bulb may wake up faster than expected!

A white deposit is often non-hazardous saprophytic mycelium.

To prevent fungal rot (Pythium, Fusarium, Phytophthora):

• Remove decaying organic matter (bulb peels)

• Clean any deposits (substrate residues, bacterial biofilm)

• Maintain a clean and controlled environment

• A bulb must remain firm.

• If it becomes soft, it is often a sign of rot.

Recommended actions:

• Remove the bulb

• Cut off affected parts

• Disinfect

• Resume the procedure under controlled conditions

As soon as the root system is well developed and the first leaf starts to grow.

Avoid repotting too early so as not to slow down growth.

1. Prepare the substrate: use our specially designed substrate for young plants and plants from in vitro culture. As well as a thin layer at the bottom of the pot, with our "active drainage layer" bottom substrate.

2. Choose the pot: a 7 cm (0.25–0.30 L) pot is ideal for starting.

3. Gently remove the roots: remove the roots from the grid and the culture medium without breaking them.

4. Arrange in the new pot: place the roots evenly, without them touching each other.

5. Acclimate: maintain moderate humidity for the first few days to promote rooting and avoid stress.

Mainly recommended for:

• Alocasia (corms and bulbs)

• Struggling tissue culture plants

• Sensitive young plants

Hydrogen Peroxide:

• Eliminates bacteria and fungi

• Cleanses the bulb

• Greatly reduces the risk of contamination

• Facilitates the assimilation of nutrients released by the substrate

Possible causes:

• Temperature too low

• Bulb dormant

• Lack of humidity

• Weakened bulb

In some cases, you just have to wait.